Rabari

Kutch, gujarat

Nomadic & tribal-inspired intricate Rabari embroidery from Bhuj.

The Rabaris are a nomadic pastoral community traditionally known for breeding sheep and camels. They have spread across various parts of Kutch while maintaining a strong cultural identity. Typically, Rabaris used to engage in seasonal farming during the monsoon and in the winter after the harvest they left their homes to find fodder for their herds. Traveling with their families and cattle in a caravan, carrying their household goods on camelback.

A legend explains the distinctive dress of Rabari women. Several hundred years ago, the Rabaris migrated from Jaisalmer in Rajasthan to Kutch. At that time, Jaisalmer had a Muslim ruler. When he passed by a Rabari wedding celebration, he was enchanted by the young bride's beauty and expressed a desire to marry her. The Rabaris, who do not marry outside their community, devised a plan. They informed the ruler to come the next day, claiming it was an auspicious day for the wedding. Meanwhile, the bride and a few young men escaped during the night. The following day, the ruler discovered the bride had vanished. In his fury, he ordered the entire Rabari clan to be tortured and executed. Since then, Rabari women wear black to mourn these deaths

Embroidery once held a special place in Rabari women's lives, serving as an important cultural expression. Every young girl learned the traditional methods of embroidery, including motifs, patterns, and color use, from her mother. Girls began embroidering at a young age to prepare their dowries with embroidered clothes, kanchalis, wall hangings, pillow covers, purses, and kothalas (big bags) for their weddings.

After daily chores, women would work on their embroidery pieces, which also served as a social activity. This time allowed women to share their joys and sorrows, and for new brides to bond with other women in their husband's village. Rabari embroidery was dense, time-consuming, and reflected their culture and environment. Their motifs included camels, peacocks, parrots, scorpions, trees like the baval and mango, various jewelry forms, and temples. Each woman's unique arrangement of these motifs showcased her talent and creativity, ensuring no two pieces were alike. Rabaris were very fond of embroideries and used more decorations than most other communities.