Sujni

Bihar

Textural running stitch embroidery from Bihar.

Sujni is one of the most beloved traditional arts and crafts of Bihar. This conventional quilt, originating from the rural areas of the state, derives its name from ‘Su’ meaning easy or facilitating and ‘Jani’ meaning birth. During childbirth, patches of variously colored cloth from old saris and dhotis are sewn together with a simple running stitch to create a Sujni quilt. The use of old cloth has a specific purpose: to wrap the newborn in a soft, comforting embrace reminiscent of its mother. Three or four layers of saris or dhotis are placed on top of one another and quilted with threads taken from the used garments. The motifs are filled in with a simple running stitch, while their outlines are usually completed with a dark chain stitch. These quilts, crafted with the simplest of stitches and readily available fabrics—often well-worn—are typically made by women in their free time at home.

Sujni is practiced around Northern Bihar which is know for its physical beauty and gentle, all green undulating groves and streams which are deceptive and lushly serene. These surroundings are a great source of inspiration for the artisans. The figurative and domestic imagery on sujni relate to Mathila and Madhu-bani painting in form and content. Figures are rounded, filled with patterned cloth, and given movement through the interplay of two and three dimensional space. Everyday objects such as chulha (stoves), hasiya (chopping knives), and a multitude of pots and pans abound are usually seen in traditional sujni quilts.

Sujni is notable for transforming a traditional craft into a medium for expressing contemporary social and political themes. These narratives assert that social change is the essence and purpose of the craft's revival. Women stitch their lives into the quilts, and in doing so, transform their own lives. What once was merely a source of income has become a means for these women to overcome the limitations of their environment and restricted life cycles. Through discovering a creative skill and inner strength uniquely their own, they have found their identities and selves.

The embroidery embody a deeply personal expression for homestead-bound women in rural Bihar, with needle, thread, and cloth serving as their mediums of expression. Sujni becomes her canvas. Her thoughts, feelings, and imagination were woven into the fabric, conveying her innermost emotions. It becomes a means to utilise her lonely time by connecting with the other women who practice the craft. The process of embroidery becomes very meditative and at the same time it helps them to economically support their families while staying in their rigid domestic spheres established by the society.